Fry feeding guide

Best live food for livebearer fry (molly, platy & swordtail)

Livebearer fry are the kindest fry in the hobby: born at a size egg-layer fry take a month to reach, able to eat real food from their first hour. The only real enemies are the adults’ appetites and slow, uneven growth on flake alone — and live food solves the second while you manage the first with plants and timing.

Platy fry, a few days old, near the surface

Photo: Gourami Watcher, Wikimedia Commons, CC0

The feeding plan

StageFeed thisWhy it works
Day 1Microworms + newborn daphnia (moina) in the waterFry are born hunting; food present from the first hour is survival and growth in one move
Weeks 1–4Daphnia (moina) most daysThe fastest, most even growth — fry on live food size up uniformly, which also ends most size-bullying
Week 4+Adult moina + crushed stapleTransition toward the adult diet while live feeds keep growth ahead
Breeding femalesDaphnia-rich feeding between broodsFemales rebuilt on live food carry stronger next broods; molly females especially show it

Practical tips

  • Feed adults first, far end of the tank, then drop fry food into the plants — distraction saves more fry than breeder boxes.
  • Dense planting or a spawning mop is the fry’s real refuge; a bare tank is a feeding bowl.
  • Sort by size at week 3 if growth spreads out — big fry eat first at every feed, forever.
Watch out: Breeder boxes buy days, not weeks: fry stunted in a box for a month never catch their tank-raised siblings. Move fry to real water with real food early.

Common questions

What do molly fry eat?

From day one: microworms and newborn daphnia (moina). They are born far bigger than egg-layer fry, so no vinegar-eel stage is needed — go straight to the growth foods.

How do I stop adults eating platy and swordtail fry?

Plants, mops and distraction: dense cover to hide in, adults fed first at the opposite end, and fry food delivered into the cover. In a community tank you will raise the fry that reach the plants in the first minute — which, well fed, is most of them.

Start these cultures

In stock in the Western Cape, dispatched Monday to Wednesday, door-to-door across South Africa.

Microworms climbing the wall of a culture tub, harvested with a fingertip

Microworms

In stock

Panagrellus redivivus

The go-to first food for betta, gourami, tetra and cory fry

Size±1–3 mm
Culture mediumOats / instant porridge paste
Temperature18–27 °C (room temperature)
DifficultyVery easy

R50 · 15 ml starter culture

Live daphnia (moina) being harvested with a fine net from a green culture tub

Daphnia (Moina)

In stock

Moina sp.

The small “daphnia” that suits fry and small fish — and breeds fast in warm water

Size±0.4–1.5 mm (adults ±1–1.5 mm)
Temperature20–30 °C (fastest at 24–28 °C)
FoodGreen water, yeast, spirulina
DifficultyModerate — keep a backup culture

R50 · starter culture

Fry starter kit with culture tubs, a daphnia (moina) jar and pipette beside a fry tank

Fry Starter Kit

In stock

All four fry cultures in one parcel

Every fry size covered, from first bite to grow-out, in one courier parcel

IncludesDaphnia (moina), microworms, banana worms, vinegar eels
Culture mediaWater tub (moina) + oats paste (worms & eels)
TemperatureRoom temperature (moina warmest, 20–30 °C)
DifficultyVery easy

R200 · 4-culture bundle

Feeding livebearer fry (molly, platy & swordtail)? Get the culture right first time.

Tell us your setup and town on WhatsApp — we will confirm which cultures you need, what is in stock, and the exact delivered price.

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More species guides

Live food for bettas · Food for betta fry · Food for guppy fry · Live food for guppies · All species →

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